The new Gucci arrives with high hopes for revival as fashion’s most anticipated debut finally unfolds in Milan. Demna, the controversial former Balenciaga creative director, unveiled his first collection for the storied Italian house on Friday at Palazzo delle Scintille. Nearly 1,000 guests watched as the designer attempted to breathe new life into the struggling brand.
The New Gucci Star-Studded Night in Milan
The new Gucci arrives with high revival hopes, and the guest list reflected the moment’s importance. Paris Hilton and her sister Nicky Rothschild sat among the VIPs. K-pop star Lee Know brought his massive fanbase. Donatella Versace showed support from the front row. Even Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s former star designer, attended to witness the brand’s new era.
The venue itself set the tone—a replica of an Italian museum filled with Roman statues inside the Art Nouveau Palazzo delle Scintille. It nodded to Gucci’s 1921 Florentine roots while embracing something entirely new.
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The Collection: Tom Ford Nostalgia Meets Demna Edge
The new Gucci arrives with high revival hopes through 83 looks spanning women’s and men’s wear. Ladies wore stilettos, low-waist leggings, miniskirts, and stockings adorned with the double G monogram. Faux-fur coats and bomber jackets added drama. Men flaunted six-packs in tight tops, biker jackets, and oversized red or white leather shoes. Signature crossbody bum bags appeared throughout.
Kate Moss closed the show in a glittering black evening dress. Its open back revealed the tip of her thong featuring a golden double G—a moment sure to generate endless social media chatter.
Gaya Guiragossian, style director at Vestiaire Collective, noted the Tom Ford influence. “His collection was a nod to the glamorous Tom Ford era with looks from the 1990s, whether that’s smoky eyes, silk shirts or shiny materials.”
Why Gucci’s Revival Matters
The new Gucci arrives with high revival hopes because the brand’s health affects the entire fashion ecosystem. It’s the most-sold label on Vestiaire Collective. After Michele’s departure, sales tumbled more than 40% following his final year when Gucci crossed the symbolic €10 billion milestone.
Serge Carreira of Sciences Po explained the stakes: “The success of Gucci under Michele was staggering, but the downturn was even more brutal, which reflects the enormous volatility of fashion consumers. Hence, there are high hopes of a comeback into grace, since it’s the flagship brand of one of the biggest luxury groups.”
The New Gucci Commercial Test
The new Gucci arrives with high revival hopes, but accessories will determine commercial success. Yann Kretz of Kéa Consulting noted, “Accessories represent a significant chunk of the business,” citing belts, shoes, and “it” bags. The famous Gucci mules featured heavily in Friday’s collection, worn by male models.
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Kering CEO Luca de Meo praised the collection’s product offerings without commenting on creative references. “We’re starting a path right now, and it feels like it’s going in the right direction,” he said.
What’s Next for The New Gucci
The new Gucci arrives with high revival hopes, and the fashion world watches closely. Alix Morabito of Galeries Lafayette noted the brand’s assets: “Its Italian family roots, its know-how on leather goods and shoes, and its history that dates back more than a century are all assets that can be leveraged.”
Whether Demna can translate his viral touch into sustained commercial success remains to be seen. But for one night in Milan, Gucci reminded everyone why it matters.
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The New Gucci Source Information:
This article is based on reporting from the Gucci Fall/Winter 2026 show in Milan, interviews with fashion industry experts, and statements from Kering executives.
Read the full coverage: Bloomberg – Gucci’s Demna Debut
Affiliate Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. This article contains affiliate links to products inspired by Gucci’s aesthetic.
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